Chef Philippe Rochat and myself share a trait of character: we have always enjoyed keeping pushing forward and taking risks. This was therefore not a big surprise when I discovered what he had decided to organise for my first ever presentation of 2002 Dom Pérignon and 1996 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque: a dinner at his restaurant in Crissier near Lausanne (3-star Michelin L’Hôtel de Ville) with representatives of all the top restaurants in Switzerland. This was quite an act of confidence, as we all know that the judgment of one’s peers is always the toughest.
The menu was fantastic, and two dishes stood out for me, both paired with the two expressions of 1996 Dom Pérignon side by side: the original Vintage release and the upcoming Œnothèque—first, green asparagus from Pertuis and Imperial Ossetra caviar, followed by a stuffed morel with an Agaricus mushroom reduction. Both dishes were not only highlighting a difference in aromatics (nutiness versus minerality), but also revealing the whole philosophy of the Œnothèque: the same assemblage from the same vintage, yet two wines so distinct in terms of sheer intensity, mouthfeel, integration of characters and complexity.
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Photo: J.-M. Curien
So wonderful to hear of this, as 1996 is my most favorite Dom Perignon vintage; a true masterpiece. And now the Œnothèque; what wonders await us all… Yours truly, @brodomperignon
We have a bottle of 1988 and 1990 – are they still good to drink?