As I was off to the United States for a series of presentations of the 2002 vintage, I had to recollect my impressions from this wine along the years in the cellar. At first the texture and creamy, chewy mouthfeel stood out, reminding me of 1982 Dom Pérignon. However a few years later the wine had shut down a bit, making itself distant with increased density and tension, reminding me somewhat of the arrogance of our 1996. The 2002 then kept changing and evolving, though, and its personality started to shine through and assert itself, with even more complexity. Right now it has loosened considerably, starting to display opulence and fullness; it feels as rich as the 1990 Dom Pérignon, which is consistent with their comparable level of ripeness. The multifaceted character of 2002 Dom Pérignon is still difficult to grasp in full but these references to such benchmark vintages make me wonder what heights it can reach.
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Chef Philippe Rochat and myself share a trait of character: we have always enjoyed keeping pushing forward and taking risks. This was therefore not a big surprise when I discovered what he had decided to organise for my first ever presentation of 2002 Dom Pérignon and 1996 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque: a dinner at his restaurant in Crissier near Lausanne (3-star Michelin L’Hôtel de Ville) with representatives of all the top restaurants in Switzerland. This was quite an act of confidence, as we all know that the judgment of one’s peers is always the toughest.
The menu was fantastic, and two dishes stood out for me, both paired with the two expressions of 1996 Dom Pérignon side by side: the original Vintage release and the upcoming Œnothèque—first, green asparagus from Pertuis and Imperial Ossetra caviar, followed by a stuffed morel with an Agaricus mushroom reduction. Both dishes were not only highlighting a difference in aromatics (nutiness versus minerality), but also revealing the whole philosophy of the Œnothèque: the same assemblage from the same vintage, yet two wines so distinct in terms of sheer intensity, mouthfeel, integration of characters and complexity.
Photo: J.-M. Curien
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Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque: the vintages 1966… 1978… 1982… 1985… 1988… and 1990 will be available at a special auction in collaboration with Sotheby’s, to take place in Hong Kong on 21 May 2010. These six vintages complement each other to offer a broader perspective of Dom Pérignon Rosé, testament to the unparalleled ageworthiness of this wine.
Pierre Lurton and Serena Sutcliffe MW have organized a sensational sale of Châteaux Cheval Blanc and d’Yquem and they asked Dom Pérignon to join this “Treasure Direct from the Cellars” auction. As you know the 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque in bottles is already available commercially—however for the release of older vintages and larger formats our choice is to go through auctions. I have known Serena—a world class wine expert and a fantastic ambassador for Champagne—for more than 20 years: it is of course a pleasure to embark on a project with her again.
Enthusiasm for Champagne at auctions has never been so high: I can even say it is the most significant phenomenon in the world of wine auctions in the last few years. I am proud that Dom Pérignon has been a pioneer, contributing largely to this recognition: we are going even further with this new exclusive sale. The bottles offered come directly from our cellars, which is at the same time a pledge of quality and authenticity: wine amateurs can be assured that the provenance of the bottles cannot be any better!
And as a teaser, let me conclude with my personal notes on 1966 Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque: 1966 was punctuated by some remarkable events, which in the end had little effect on the harvest. Winter freezes caused only very minor damage. Chlorosis affected some sectors, but the flowering went smoothly. It was followed by a number of hailstorms between May and August. The harvest began on September 22 in good conditions, with the grapes in perfect health. The wine breathes and radiates a wide spectrum of notes in which tea and meringue blend with roses and spices. Its body is light and silky, supremely elegant; everything about it is precise, agile and clear.
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I am in New York right now for our 2010 Wine Mission in the United States: a series of events and dinners around the theme of the Silk Road—stay tuned! From my room at the Standard with the Statue of Liberty in the distance and before flying to Los Angeles, I want to take the time to introduce you to our Rosé in 2000. A milestone in the history of Dom Pérignon Rosé, an impressive wine in itself, it allows me to look at the same time back and forward.
Looking back, as I think of the creator of Dom Pérignon Rosé in 1959: René Philipponnat. I contemplate what has become Dom Pérignon’s legacy: his ambition to pioneer Rosé wines at a new level; the start of the Dom Pérignon Rosé adventure that generated the other expression of Dom Pérignon. Looking forward, as it is my duty to live up to this heritage and keep pushing and taking risks to offer you an ever more provocative Rosé. Forward again as I feel the time is right to make a statement and raise the awareness level of this wine.
2000 is a major vintage of Dom Pérignon Rosé, which allowed me to push and refine Dom Pérignon’s ideal. The main paradox is of course the ardent expression of the Pinot Noir: lively, facetious, vibrant—combined with the devotion to the assemblage. Finally the audacity of the Pinot Noir stands in stark contrast with the extreme classicism of the 2000 vintage.
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I am incredibly happy to announce the launch of the very first Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque—a wine magnifying the unparalleled aging potential and complexity of Dom Pérignon Rosé.
I often think of Dom Pérignon Rosé as a paradox to the point of contradiction, and the 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque seems to be the epitome of this personality trait: rosé yet amber in color; a glorious and intriguing expression of Pinot Noir beyond the commitment to the perfect blend; “as languorous and silky as a guitar solo by Carlos Santana”*; its voluptuousness expressing itself through layers of spices and exotic fruits.
The already legendary 1990 vintage appeared like the perfect candidate for this first release. In fact, many enthusiasts have been asking me along the years when this re-release would take place, but as always the wine itself dictated the pace… I am fully confident that the 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque is now ready in all its singularity. The exact same blend as 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé, the Œnothèque has spent ten more years on its lees (disgorgement 2007). I have patiently waited for this wine to slowly develop its defining mouthfeel and complexity. This momentous event for Dom Pérignon has been a long time in the making: I feel elated to bring this wine to the light and share it with you at last!
* to quote a famous wine critic on the first release
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A new year is starting. In my case a year of travelling, meeting new and old friends, and making a lot of decisions—among other things. But it also marks the beginning of a new adventure with this blog, which satisfies my desire to share more information about my work as the chef de cave at Dom Pérignon while offering me an opportunity to connect with Dom Pérignon enthusiasts.
I invite you to join me on a trip in space and time: during my travels around the world for our Wine Mission or in the cellar in Epernay, at public events or behind closed doors, but also browsing through my memories (spanning more than 20 years) or projecting myself into future releases and projects. In short, telling all the stories that relate to making Dom Pérignon.
I will end this first entry by wishing you all the best for 2010—a year I plan to spend here in your company!
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