The flowering is in progress and going well for the time being. Some early terroirs have flowered last week (around June 16-18), for example the Chardonnays near Avize and Le Mesnil, whereas others are flowering as I’m writing, mostly the Pinot Noirs. In any case the rather cold weather in the region (especially in the mornings) didn’t affect the process. I would also like to point out the currently perfect sanitary conditions for the grapes, especially the fact that there’s not one hint of mildew in the vineyards—we are of course remaining vigilant. A picture is worth a thousand words: I am sure you will enjoy this gallery of pictures taken Wednesday morning!
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As I was off to the United States for a series of presentations of the 2002 vintage, I had to recollect my impressions from this wine along the years in the cellar. At first the texture and creamy, chewy mouthfeel stood out, reminding me of 1982 Dom Pérignon. However a few years later the wine had shut down a bit, making itself distant with increased density and tension, reminding me somewhat of the arrogance of our 1996. The 2002 then kept changing and evolving, though, and its personality started to shine through and assert itself, with even more complexity. Right now it has loosened considerably, starting to display opulence and fullness; it feels as rich as the 1990 Dom Pérignon, which is consistent with their comparable level of ripeness. The multifaceted character of 2002 Dom Pérignon is still difficult to grasp in full but these references to such benchmark vintages make me wonder what heights it can reach.
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