Chef Philippe Rochat and myself share a trait of character: we have always enjoyed keeping pushing forward and taking risks. This was therefore not a big surprise when I discovered what he had decided to organise for my first ever presentation of 2002 Dom Pérignon and 1996 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque: a dinner at his restaurant in Crissier near Lausanne (3-star Michelin L’Hôtel de Ville) with representatives of all the top restaurants in Switzerland. This was quite an act of confidence, as we all know that the judgment of one’s peers is always the toughest.
The menu was fantastic, and two dishes stood out for me, both paired with the two expressions of 1996 Dom Pérignon side by side: the original Vintage release and the upcoming Œnothèque—first, green asparagus from Pertuis and Imperial Ossetra caviar, followed by a stuffed morel with an Agaricus mushroom reduction. Both dishes were not only highlighting a difference in aromatics (nutiness versus minerality), but also revealing the whole philosophy of the Œnothèque: the same assemblage from the same vintage, yet two wines so distinct in terms of sheer intensity, mouthfeel, integration of characters and complexity.
Photo: J.-M. Curien
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Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque: the vintages 1966… 1978… 1982… 1985… 1988… and 1990 will be available at a special auction in collaboration with Sotheby’s, to take place in Hong Kong on 21 May 2010. These six vintages complement each other to offer a broader perspective of Dom Pérignon Rosé, testament to the unparalleled ageworthiness of this wine.
Pierre Lurton and Serena Sutcliffe MW have organized a sensational sale of Châteaux Cheval Blanc and d’Yquem and they asked Dom Pérignon to join this “Treasure Direct from the Cellars” auction. As you know the 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque in bottles is already available commercially—however for the release of older vintages and larger formats our choice is to go through auctions. I have known Serena—a world class wine expert and a fantastic ambassador for Champagne—for more than 20 years: it is of course a pleasure to embark on a project with her again.
Enthusiasm for Champagne at auctions has never been so high: I can even say it is the most significant phenomenon in the world of wine auctions in the last few years. I am proud that Dom Pérignon has been a pioneer, contributing largely to this recognition: we are going even further with this new exclusive sale. The bottles offered come directly from our cellars, which is at the same time a pledge of quality and authenticity: wine amateurs can be assured that the provenance of the bottles cannot be any better!
And as a teaser, let me conclude with my personal notes on 1966 Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque: 1966 was punctuated by some remarkable events, which in the end had little effect on the harvest. Winter freezes caused only very minor damage. Chlorosis affected some sectors, but the flowering went smoothly. It was followed by a number of hailstorms between May and August. The harvest began on September 22 in good conditions, with the grapes in perfect health. The wine breathes and radiates a wide spectrum of notes in which tea and meringue blend with roses and spices. Its body is light and silky, supremely elegant; everything about it is precise, agile and clear.
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